It is 6am, when most of us souls would normally be tucked under the duvet, but this was the beginning of no ordinary week. Early – yes, bright – no, but shining like a beacon in the darkness was the beaming face of tour leader, Pat Bolger. Was his heightened state of euphoria due to the fact that all of us pilgrims had arrived on time at O.L.O.L. or that his beloved Spurs had less than 24 hours earlier recorded their first win of the season? Who said it’s nearly Christmas?
After an uneventful journey along the North Circular and M.11 we arrived at Stansted Airport – with time to spare! After we checked in some of us headed towards Starbucks for coffee and croissants (I’m sure I ordered a builder’s brew and a bacon sandwich). However, disappointment was soon to surface as one of our aeroplane’s engines developed the “Monday morning blues” and refused to start. We disembarked and waited for Titan Airways to summon up a replacement. After two and a half hours delay, we belatedly arrived in Lourdes and, after a hasty meal at the hotel, we all headed to the Domain of Lourdes for Mass in the magnificent Rosary Basilica.
“. . . My impression as a ‘first time pilgrim’ was participation within a welcoming, interested, caring, heartwarming group. I was deeply moved upon entering The Domain, which was enhanced by the obvious deep devotion of many pilgrims around. Altogether a wonderful experience.” ( Michael and Ineka Bolger)
Tuesday saw grey skies. Early Mass in the Oratory of the Poor Clare’s Convent, led again by our own spiritual guide, Fr. Damian, lifted our ‘spirits’ immensely. A short stroll afterwards led towards the steps of the Basilica for a group photograph.
This year, being the 150th Anniversary of the Apparitions, Pope Benedict has attached a special favour to The Jubilee Way in Lourdes. There are four main venues of this walking tour: 1) The Parish Church where Bernadette was baptised. 2) The “Cachot” or abandoned prison where the Soubirous family lived. 3) The Domain, St. Michael’s Gate, the Arches and Grotto. 4) The Hospital Oratory where Bernadette made her first Holy Communion between the 17th and 18th Apparitions. Due to the incessant rain, our walk was reduced to a mini tour, and so after supper:
“. . . some of us went to a concert in the Church of St Bernadette, on the opposite side of the river from the Grotto. It was the final concert given by 1000 French school children who had been attending a conference in Lourdes. It was a great privilege to hear these angelic, youthful voices as they soared to the heights, singing setting after setting of Ave Marias and Salve Regias. The crowning glory was the setting of the Song of Simeon, which we know as the Nunc Dimmitis. As their voices rang out, the song was our prayer “for my eyes have seen your salvation . . . a light to enlighten the Gentiles”, and we truly had been enlightened by this wonderful music.” (David and Nicky Santamaria)
An altogether different social event was taking place at our hotel – do you know who “Cool Hand Ace” is, or “The Quiet Queen”?
“. . . Cool Hand Ace, having come out of retirement for the trip to Lourdes, was eager to show the ‘young boys’ in the card school how good her hands could be! Having won two practice games, confidence was high going into the proper game. If she was nervous it did not show, as the first seven cards of the “50 Euro winner takes all” game were dealt. Despite playing with this group of boys, Cool Hand Ace was not to be bullied and she started well. Unfortunately the good beginning became a bad middle. To stave off this downturn in fortune, Cool Hand drew on her many years of experience, all to no avail, and was left disappointed from this epic card game, won by the Quiet Queen. Is this the end of an illustrious career? When asked if she would play again Cool Hand Ace said “who knows?” But this reporter feels that he knows! Cool Hand Ace will return!” (Peter Catracchia)
Wednesday saw glorious sunshine and 100 kms south of Lourdes lies the small town of Garvanie in the high Pyrannees. So it was:
“. . . off to Garvanie – with our driver, Mark, who Dympna, our tour guide, tells us can drive blindfolded! She also promised us ski equipment when we arrived! By the marvels of modern communication we had seen pictures of snow in London. She says that they mostly do cross country skiing in this area. Quite a relief as I have tried the ordinary type, and cannot do it. The sun came out which made the scenery even more beautiful. Mass on the way was celebrated at the Abbey Church of St Savin. We wondered could our own Parish of O.L.O.L. afford an organ like theirs; rude faces and all! The sense of centuries past came through strongly as we walked in the footsteps of long departed pilgrims. How they must have wondered if they could really cross the Pyrenees, not for them a luxury coach” (Kathy Wurr & Eveline Guerin)
“. . .Garvanie Mountain Walk – An experience to be enjoyed, provided you wear the right clothes. Mountains covered in fine snow like icing sugar looked pretty and amazing, and to see the source of the River Gave – a trickling waterfall, the highest in Europe – made all the effort worthwhile” (Michael and Bridie Forry)
Who was it that said, “when God created Lourdes, with its verdant pastures, He left the roof off”? After the sunshine of yesterday, Thursday was a return to damp, soggy weather. Undeterred, we embarked on a trip to the village of Bartres, where Bernadette spent two periods of her life, - First, as an infant, and later as a shepherdess. Mass was celebrated in the beautiful parish church of St John The Baptist, which contained gilt carvings dating from the XVII century inside. Part of our mass included anointing of the sick, a truly wondrous experience! After a wander around the village, plus coffee in the only cafe open, we arrived back at our hotel for early lunch. After this we took advantage of a break in the weather to do the Stations of the Cross by the river – again part of the Pilgrim Journey undertaken for the sake of faith to profess publically our desire to come closer to God. This part of the day concluded with Fr Damian hearing our confessions whilst standing under a tree – a somewhat different confessional box, but still made of wood! Soon night time approached and we:
“. . .all met at the statue of the Crowned Virgin for our torchlight procession. Lighted candles in readiness for the start: one soon became aware of other groups who had also travelled from far and wide, praying The Rosary and singing the ‘Ave’ in their own language. This truly was a wonderful atmosphere when the groups merged into a river of shimmering light.” (Maria Barguete and Libby Biberian)
Today, incidentally, we all joined in wishing Jean Smith a Happy Birthday – we never divulge a lady’s age, but why the many references to “Cool Hand Ace”??
Dawn was breaking as we breakfasted on our ultimate day in Lourdes. We were soon on our way to the Grotto to celebrate the Eucharist, led by Bishop Blase Cupick, from the Diocese of Rapid City in South Dakota, U.S.A. (all the more symbolic given the year of the U,S. Elections). We celebrated a beautiful Mass, in the chill morning air of Lourdes. This was for many THE Mass of our Pilgrimage and, upon its conclusion, Fr. Damian led us to the candle sheds, whereupon a tall candle was lit and blessed for all members of Our Lady of Lourdes Parish.
So the remainder of Friday included time for personal devotions or a visit to the Baths – an immersion into the very cold waters of Lourdes. We concluded our trip by saying our “Au Revoirs” and, thankfully, arriving safely back to the hallowed grounds of New Southgate.
“. . . This 2008 pilgrimage has been a wonderful experience, a holiday with God, Our Lady and Bernadette. The weather damp and cold but the atmosphere just the opposite – warm, embracing, exciting, joyous, everyday different in the company of fellow parishioners, pilgrims that we only get to say “hello and goodbye” as we meet at Mass. Our daily Mass, with its thought provoking homily, made the days holy and reverent, plus the after dinner socialising with banter and teasing made evenings lively and entertaining. This has been a special “holiday” not to be missed. Would we do it again – yes we would”. (Mike and Irene Albone).
On behalf of all pilgrims, a huge vote of thanks to Patrick Bolger, Tour Leader extraordinaire, to those of you who shared your voices within this narrative and, of course, our exceptional Spiritual Leader, Fr. Damian.
“The Scribe”
PS. Lots of photos have been taken and a gallery is in the process of being put together. Watch out for it in the days ahead!
PPS. Sorry for taking so long, but the gallery of photos is finally on the site.